A color circle, based on the primary colors of red, yellow, and blue, is traditional in all forms of art, including makeup artistry. The primary colors of the color circle cannot be mixed or formed by any combination of any other colors; conversely, all other colors are derived from these three colors, or hues (a color in its purest form).
Why Do Makeup Artists Study Color Theory?
Color Theory and Complexion
•The temperature and color of the undertone of the skin need to be determined in order to choose the correct foundation.
•Warm vs. Cool (Temperature)
–Warm: look for a golden tone
–Cool: look for a blue, or green and sometimes pink tone
•Dark vs. Light (Value)
•Coverage (Intensity or Saturation)
The visible spectrum of light, as seen by the human eye, was first imprinted on a “color wheel”, first created in 1666 by Sir Isaac Newton. Several variations of the color wheel have been made since then, but the theory behind the color wheel remains the same; there are three primary colors, three secondary colors and six tertiary colors. The colors on the outside of the color wheel are pure hues; you can alter these colors by tinting (adding white), shading (adding black) to the color, and toning (adding shades of grey).
The Color Wheel is divided into a warm and a cool side. Red is a warm primary color; however, when tined, red becomes cool. Green, a secondary color, can be either warm or cool. All other colors on the pigmented color wheel are either warm or cool.
Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors of the Pigmented Color Wheel
Primary colors: Red, Yellow, and Blue. These colors cannot be created by mixing other colors.
Secondary colors: created by mixing an equal amount of two primary colors.
–Red and Blue create Violet (or Purple).
–Red and Yellow create Orange.
–Blue and Yellow create Green.
Tertiary colors: created by mixing a primary color with a secondary color.
–Red and Orange create Red-Orange.
–Red and Violet create Red-Violet.
–Blue and Green create Blue-Green.
–Blue and Violet create Blue-Violet.
–Yellow and Green create Yellow-Green.
–Yellow and Orange create Yellow-Orange.
•True colors are either warm or cool.
•One half of the color wheel is warm; the other is cool.
•The value of a color is measured by how much black, white or grey, has been added to a color.
•White is added to create a tint.
•Black is added to create a shade. (Deeper, more powerful)
•Use black sparingly; it can quickly “muddy” the color.
Grey is added to create a tone. (more subtle coloration).
A color may also be “toned down” by adding its complementary color in various increments.
Undertones/Surface tones – Temperature and Value
•Foundation selection is based on the undertone: warm foundations work with warm undertones; the same is true for cool undertones and cool foundation.
•Foundation must be selected according to value; light to dark.
•With the lightest and darkest skin tones, the greater the margin is for error: lines of demarcation will be more apparent.
•Surface tones are frequently mistaken by new MUA’s as the undertone.
•If the skin’s surface or overtones are incorrectly identified as the undertone, the foundation selection (and concealer) will be incorrect and unflattering.
Theories of Color Harmony – pleasing arrangements for the eye
•Complementary colors are those that are directly opposite one another on the color wheel; the competing colors create a strong, dramatic visual
•Analogous colors are those that are touching one another, are usually three colors with one predominant color, and are on the same side of the color. When well done, an analogous color scheme presents a seamless color flow.
•Split Complementary colors include a primary color and then one of two colors next to the direct opposite.
•Monochromatic color scheme is one in which only one true hue is used, and is accompanied only by tones (shades of grey). The item in color then becomes the focal point.
Nature – colors appearing in nature often are inexplicably beautiful and provide inspiration.
Accent Points-Eyes, Lips, Cheeks
•Color Theory is also important when choosing accent points.
•The makeup artist’s selection will determine whether the look will be neutral, or will “pop” with color.
•Neutral accent points are created when staying within the same temperature as the skin undertone.
•Vivid accent points are created when using colors, which are the opposite of the undertone
•Textures, which include shimmer, will create more drama, even for the neutral palette.
PHOTOS FROM OUR RECENT COLOR THEORY CLASS AT IBS - NYC!
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Our next Session is just around the corner! Start with our full Certification Program on April 2nd!
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ADD AIRBRUSH TO YOUR MENU OF SERVICES & INCREASE YOUR EARNINGS!
- “You need to spend money to make money.”
- Your cost of the compressor, foundations, may be tax deductible expenditures.
- You will book more brides; in fact, brides will often hire only those makeup artists who are skilled at airbrush makeup.
- You will be able to work more quickly, thereby completing more faces and increasing your earnings.
- You will be able to charge extra for your airbrush services; you will also be able to charge extra if/when you are able to camouflage tattoos using alcohol-based airbrush products.
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Camouflage makeup is used to even skin tone, compensate for hair loss, and, particularly in the case of burn survivors, redefine features. The makeup artist may be hired for a one-time application; for example, for the camouflage of a bride’s tattoo on her wedding day. On the other hand, individuals with skin conditions, such as vitiligo, melasma and hyper-pigmentation, may come to the makeup artist on a regular basis to learn how they themselves can best apply their makeup.
Camouflage makeup can be very rewarding. When a makeup artist is able to color-correct the skin, and the result successfully mimics “real” skin, the client’s confidence is immediately boosted. Camouflage makeup can also be extremely frustrating. In the case of uneven skin texture, the makeup artist will only be able to color correct, but will not be able to even out the texture of the severely affected skin, and the result will fall short of looking like “real” skin. In the case of textured skin, both the client and the makeup artist must be realistic and lower their expectations.
- Excellent sanitation practices are an even greater consideration than usual; the last thing we want to do is to make the client’s condition worse by cross-contamination.
- The foundations selected should be opaque.
- The makeup should be durable and long-lasting; however, in no case should any alcohol-based products be used on skin grafts.
- There should be no need to use more than two foundation colors, and both should be found within the same product line.
- Finally, the client’s dexterity is also a consideration: in the case of burn survivors, the hands/arms may be constricted, making it difficult for the client to finesse the makeup application.
Foundation for the Surrounding Skin: Regardless of the reason for or area to be camouflaged, the first thing that the makeup artist should do is find, and set aside, the foundation color or colors that will match the skin surrounding the affected area.
Skin Prep: To the extent possible, the skin should be moisturized and hydrated. Silicone primers, which provide “slip”, will work well with foundations that are silicone or wax-based. If there is some silicone in a crème-based foundation, by using a silicone primer, the foundation will also work to make the skin look more life-like.
Color Theory: Assess the undertone/value/color of the affected skin when working to camouflage bruises, birthmarks, and tattoos. Sparingly apply thin color corrector foundation to cancel the discoloration. Examples: unresolved scar tissue and skin grafts are usually red, therefore green will help cancel the red. If the affected area looks sallow (yellow, green), then lavender and pinks will be a good choice. For sallow, deep complexions, orange in the correct value, will work to diffuse the affected area. After the completion of color correction, apply the foundation product that matches the surrounding skin tone and cover-powder-cover-powder.
Product Camouflage: In their makeup kits, makeup artists should have a wide color selection of opaque, camouflage products, to ensure that all skin tones can be camouflaged. As stated above, the goal is to find no more than two shades to successfully camouflage the discoloration and/or the surrounding skin. Sometimes “moles” are added to make the area look more realistic.
Product Consistency: Try to use the most lightweight camouflage makeup possible, in an effort, to create a more natural look.
Product Durability: Set Powder, either in various pigmented shades, or translucent, is highly recommended (unless the skin is severely dry) to create a water-resistant finish. When satisfied that the area is successfully camouflaged, and following the powder application, the artist may wish to lightly spritz ionized water to “bring back” the look of skin. If the client seeks a waterproof finish, such as on the hands, following the last layer of set powder, the artist can spray the area with an alcohol-based setting spray – However, alcohol products should never be used on skin grafts.
Brows: Loss of hair may be due to alopecia, chemotherapy or other reasons. The artist must use a waterproof, durable makeup product, together with a small brush to draw individual hairs; some artists also find that using stencils is helpful. False brows, using human hair, can be custom-made and then applied to the brow bone with medical surgical glue, such as pros aide.
Eyes: The makeup artist may need to apply the principles of highlight and contour to redefine a natural shape to the eyes.
- For durability, it is important to first prime the eyelids before adding any powders.
- On uneven, textured eyelids, the artist should always avoid adding more textures, such as shimmer, frost, and glitter.
- If the client seeks lashes, the artist can usually add false lashes, using latex-free glue.
Lips: First, to recreate symmetry and balance, the makeup artist should use a long- wearing, silicone-based lip pencil, followed by a long-lasting liquid lip product that will not dry out the lips.
- If lipstick is applied following the lip pencil application, the makeup artist should set the lipstick with a setting powder through a one-ply tissue, this can be repeated up to two times or more.
- It is advisable to avoid the use of bright, heavily saturated color; instead the artist may wish to apply a more neutral tone.
- Men should typically avoid any lip color, with the exception, if necessary, of a brown pencil to redefine the border of the mouth.
Male Facial Hair: Men can find false beards/mustaches to recreate facial hair; they can also use a stipple sponge with a cream, followed by powder and spray, to create beard stubble, or to recreate the look of hair on their fingers.
2. Before using any products, be sure to spray products with a sanitizing spray, such as FIRST Sanitizer.
3.Prep the skin by cleaning and moisturizing according to skin type.
4. Use a silicone based primer.
5. Using the stainless-steel palette knife and palette, select a color that will match the undertone of the skin, then set that color aside. If the color cannot be found, two colors may need to be mixed. Next, select another cream color or colors, if necessary, to color correct or diffuse the discoloration.
6. Apply the camouflage cream, using a soft, latex-free sponge. Starting in the middle of the area and blend out the edges; make sure to apply the cream that matches the undertone both over and around the scar.
8. To achieve a more natural look, “moles”, “freckles”, or hair follicles can be painted on the camouflaged area with either a brush or stipple sponge.
9. To bring “life” back to the camouflaged skin, apply a sheer spray of ionized water.
10. If the hands or neck is the area to be camouflaged, and must be waterproofed, apply a sheer spray of an alcohol-based spray, except in the cases where the skin is grafted.
11. For pitted scarring on small areas, a topical silicone product, such as Dermaflage, may be used.
12. Avoid the use of blush over the camouflaged area. The blush will bring back the color that the artist/client was trying to camouflage.
13. If the client is willing and able, airbrush makeup is a quick and effective way to camouflage skin discolorations and tattoos.
Product Removal: Apply a liberal amount of cleansing cream (Cerave, or Cetaphil are inexpensive options) on the entire area. Wipe off the makeup/cleansing cream with a non-irritating moistened cotton square or non-scented baby wipe. For the eyes and lips, a gentle makeup remover, such as a micellar water is recommended.
- Clinical Cosmetology: A Medical Approach to Esthetics Procedures, Victoria Rayner (1993)
- Milady Standard Makeup, Michelle D’Allaird (2003)
This writing is created for and owned by Make Up First, LLC, and cannot be copied or otherwise duplicated without express written consent of the owner.
GET READY INDOORS BEFORE YOU GO OUTDOORS!
Tip 1: Prep your face with moisturizer!
Hydrate according to skin type. For added hydration and protection, layer your moisturizer with a serum.
- For Dry Skin, add serum under a thicker formulation moisturizer.
- For Oily Skin, use an oil-free serum and oil-free moisturizer.
- For Combination Skin, try oil free products on the T-Zone and thicker moisturizer on the cheeks.
Tip 2: Use Primer.
Primers may be used under makeup or alone to even out surface texture and fill in fine lines and wrinkles, as well as to protect against, dry, cold windy wintery air!
Tip 3: Exfoliate, Exfoliate, Exfoliate!
Exfoliate your body, face, and don't forget your lips! We recommend using face scrub 2-3 times a week. For chapped lips, be sure to exfoliate, followed by using a lip moisturizing product, like Rosebud Salve.
Mario badescu BOTANICAL EXFOLIATING SCRUB
Tip 4: Use Finishing Spray.
To add longevity to your makeup, make sure you spritz your face with a Finishing Spray.
Winter Makeup Ideas! The best applications can be created on hydrated skin;
1. Use a silicone-based foundation which will provide a radiant finish and also create yet another barrier from the wind and cold.
2. Highlight the high points of the face to reflect whatever light we have in the winter!
3. Use waterproof mascara (snow, wind) and water resistant eyeliner pencil or gel liner.
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Don't despair! Srping will be here before we know it!
April 30, 2018
10am - 4pm
Join us for our TEMPTU Certified Airbrush/Bridal Workshop. This one-day workshop will cover the business of Bridal as well as Airbrush makeup using TEMPTU products! Students will learn how to assemble and use the airbrush and compressor; and will be taught techniques and be guided in the selection of various airbrush foundations, blushes and contour shades, in order to create the highly sought-after flawless airbrushed face. Equipment is available for use during the one-day, six-hour session, as well as available for purchase. Students should bring brushes from their makeup kits.
Upon completion, students will receive a TEMPTU Certified by Make Up First® Certificate! Don't miss out on this SPECIAL offer!
This course can be used as 6 hours towards Continuing Education. Make Up First® is an approved sponsor under the IL Barber Act.
April 8-9, 2018
Create flawless “real-world” camera-ready images with an up-to-the-minute curriculum powered by the latest in technology. From product knowledge to hands-on application, covering all aspects of high definition beauty.
Makeup by Jordan Liberty
5 RESOLUTIONS TO ACTUALLY KEEP:
RESOLUTION #1: Take you makeup off before bed. Every night. No matter what.
May we recommend The MakeUp Eraser? Meet your new bed-time best friend. The MakeUp Eraser cloth removes 100% of your makeup with water only, including waterproof eyeliner and mascara, HD makeup and much more. The machine washable cloth will last up to 1,000 washes and eliminates the need to buy any disposable product to remove your makeup.
How to use: With warm water, fully soak the cloth before using. Beginning with the short-pile side, use circular motions to loosen and remove makeup. Continue with the other side to exfoliate and perfect your clean skin.
BIODERMA Sensibio H2O works on all skin-types and is gentle enough for everyday use. This product is perfect for cleansing and removing makeup from the face and eyes. Its potent vitamin E enriched formula works to soothe and clear up irritated skin.
How to use: With a cotton pad or linen square, apply the micellar solution on your face to remove product and debris. We recommend after you wash your face or after you use your MakeUp eraser.
RESOLUTION #2: Hydrate! Drink more water and don't forget your skin!
Give your skin an instant refresher with facial sprays. From Rose Water to Cooling Aloe, our Pro Shop has it all! *Mario Bedescu Products are available in-store only.
MARIO BADESCU FACIAL SPRAY WITH ALOE, HERBS, AND ROSEWATER
CINEMA SECRETS MOISTURE SPRAY
MARIO BADESCU FACIAL SPRAY WITH ALOE, CUCUMBER, AND GREEN TEA
RESOLUTION #3: BE MORE BOLD!
Try a new lipstick! We have a plethora of Pantone-approved purples!
RESOLUTION #4: Clean your brushes and sponges on a regular basis!
No, seriously, do it. Your professional makeup kit is a non-negotiable. You already clean and sanitize before and after every client. So, why wouldn't you treat your face, brushes, and cosmetics with the same respect?! It's easy as 1,2,3!
RESOLUTION #5: go with the faux
Don't be afraid to try false lashes! Go ahead, look more wide-eyed! With quick-dry lash glue and lash applicators, adding your own lashes becomes a breeze!
WORST OF 2017
WHAT IS IT ABOUT EYEBROWS?!
BEST OF 2017
CELEBRITY MAKEUP ARTIST, JORDAN LIBERTY USED KEVYN AUCOIN - DIAMOND EYE GLOSS TO ACHIEVE THIS LOOK.
CELEBRITY MAKEUP ARTIST, JORDAN LIBERTY USED A BERRY SHADOW TO DEFINE THE EYES.
TIP: USE A C - MOTION TO MERRY THE TOP LID TO THE BOTTOM; THIS WILL CREATE A COHESIVE LOOK.
SEEN ON AND OFF THE RUNWAYS, MAKEUP ARTISTS HAVE BEEN USING THE SAME COLOR PALETTE TO DEFINE ACCENT POINTS. THIS
TIP: YOU CAN USE A BLUSH AS AN EYE-SHADOW, AND VICE - VERSA. YOU DON'T HAVE TO PLAY BY THE RULES!
THIS LOOK CREATES A FRESH LOOK.
TIP: TO CREATE A "FEATHERED" EDGE, USE AN EYESHADOW BRUSH AND "BLUR" THE LIP LINE.
IMAGE COURTESY of jordan liberty. THIS IMAGE IS
FROM OUR JORDAN LIBERTY workshop AT MAKE UP FIRST® SCHOOL. This look WAS demonstrateD ON @officialgabija . Makeup and photography BY jordan liberty USING kevyn aucoin diamond eye gloss, anastasia beverly hills dipbrow, and kevyn aucoin primed skin developer mixed into foundation.
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SALE: 10% OFF ALL SIGMA® Products
PROMO CODE: SIGMA10
*Sale starts Monday, December 11th, 2017
Join us for a (FREE) gathering on
Thursday, December 7th, 2017
The Pro Shop will be open with end-of-year product deals!
Please feel free to bring a guest, the more the merrier!
- Sigma® Try-Me Station
- Complimentary De-Potting on the Z-Potter (Bring your palettes and your singles, Z-Palettes will also be discounted for this event)
- Demonstrations (Product and Technique)
- Gifts with purchase from Kevyn Aucoin, Embryolisse, Jao, Beauty Blender, and more!
- From 7-8pm the excitement builds. Look for giveaways with Sigma®, Kevyn Aucoin, Z-Palette, and more!
- Light snacks and refreshments will be provided.
EAT, DRINK, AND PLAY WITH MAKEUP!
Please RSVP to firstname.lastname@example.org with name(s) of all guests attending.
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Chicago, IL 60605
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MINI MONDAY WORKSHOP SERIES: NYE MAKEUP | DECEMBER 4, 2017
Join Make Up First® as we demo several NYE applications using different products to create bold looks to ring in the New Year!
Our Mini Monday Workshop Series is open to the public. This workshop is demo only. Workshop will run from 10am - 12pm.
This course can be used as 2 hours towards Continuing Education. Make Up First® is an approved sponsor under the IL Barber Act.
*Makeup by Make Up First® Instructor, Karla Arias
INTENSIVE HAIRSTYLING FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS | DECEMBER 9-11, 2017
In this 3-day intensive hairstyling workshop, instructors will focus on the use of multiple hairstyling tools, braiding, backcombing, up-do’s, down do’s and the art of pin curling.
ADVANCED THEATRICAL | December 11-14, 2017
Students will learn advanced techniques in application of pre-made prosthetics, bald caps; correct technique for laying facial hair and use of SFX products will be taught. Students are asked to bring your basic makeup kit, all theatrical and SFX supplies will be provided.
About the Instructor: Richard Jarvie is a freelance Makeup Artist and Wig Designer with over 30 years of experience in the field. Before embarking on a full-time freelance career, “Rick” worked for the Lyric Opera of Chicago for 28 years—11 of them as Wig Master. Having received a B.A. in Theatre Arts from Nazareth College of Rochester, NY, Rick also trained under the San Francisco Opera Wig and Makeup Training Program. Rick has been involved in opera houses too numerous to mention.
This course can be used as 16 hours towards Continuing Education. Make Up First® is an approved sponsor under the IL Barber Act.
AIRBRUSH WORKSHOP | DECEMBER 18, 2017
Students will learn how to assemble and use the airbrush and compressor. The students will be taught techniques and be guided in the selection of various airbrush foundations, blushes and contour shades, in order to create the highly sought-after flawless airbrushed face. Equipment is available for use during the one-day, four-hour session, as well as available for purchase. Students should bring brushes from their makeup kits.
This course can be used as 4 hours towards Continuing Education. Make Up First® is an approved sponsor under the IL Barber Act.
TEEN CAMP | DECEMBER 26-29, 2017
These single-session workshops are geared toward student’s ages 13-17. Students have the option of choosing all four sessions or any single session of their choosing.
MINI MONDAY WORKSHOP SERIES:
Why, you ask?
Throughout the day, your skin is exposed to pollution in the environment, regardless of whether or not you have on makeup. Over time, the buildup of pollution, free radicals, and makeup can result in clogged pores, acne, skin damage, and even fine lines and wrinkles, due to loss of collagen!
To prevent clogged pores which can lead to acne, you NEED to remove your makeup and wash your face every night. Sure, one night of skipping your routine won't cause irreversible damage, but it could lead to an unwanted pimple or two!
How to remove your makeup:
A makeup wipe may take off much of the makeup on the surface of your skin, but will not remove everything. You will need to use a cleanser or exfoliator to remove unwanted makeup and debris from your pores.
To balance your skin before you moisturize, use a non-alcohol toner or facial spray based on your skin-type.
What about for dry skin?
To hydrate and calm skin, use Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Herbs, and Rose Water or Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Cucumber, and Green Tea. Pro Tip: use either facial spray or moisture spray by Cinema Secrets, as mid-day refresher.
Follow with a moisturizer and under-eye cream.
Moisturizes for skin-types:
Normal to Dry:
- Embryolisse Lait-Creme is a makeup artist cult- favorite! A rich moisturizing lotion is really three products in one: use it as a primer, moisturizer, and make-up remover.
- Embryolisse Filaderme Emulsion is an enriched moisturizing cream that maintains the optimal pH of your skin while protecting it from external forces. The concentrated formula means a little goes a long way. Pro Tip: apply sparingly with fingertips over the whole face and neck so that only a fine sheen remains on the skin.
- Embryoderme is a rich moisturizing and revitalizing cream that helps to regenerate the surface of the skin, making it appear smooth, supple, and well-toned. Its simple, effective formula provides the skin the nutrition and repair it needs and ensures rapid correction of problems associated with very dry skin. Elastin, collagen, shea butter, Vitamins A, E and F work to intensely to revitalize the skin. It provides the skin with natural nourishing and moisturizing elements to repair it and eliminate all signs of dryness and discomfort. Its rich texture soothes the skin, leaving it supple, soft and smooth.
- Use Embryolisse Hydra-Mat Emulsion, as it ensures optimal moisturizing and a long lasting matt effect. It absorbs excessive sebum and reduces shininess; the apricot oil naturally tones skin.
- Embryolisse Anti-Aging Firming Cream combines soluble collagen with hyaluronic acid to visibly firm skin, boost elasticity, tone and reduce wrinkles. Once applied, the nourishing base adds density and softens skin in a matter of seconds. This rich, nourishing, non-greasy formula restores skin’s substance to re-sculpt the facial outline and erase wrinkles.
- Embryolisse Smooting Eye Contour Treatment presents a non-greasy eye treatment that has been specially formulated for the fragile area around the eyes. Rich in active ingredients, this multi-purpose product acts to improve skin tone, firm skin, and reduce the appearance of small wrinkles and crow's feet.
Your body and hands! Embryolisse Nourishing Hand Cream contains a combination of natural shea butter and wheatgerm oil to give very dry, damaged hands a smooth, plumper appearance, leaving skin feeling comfortable and soft to the touch!
Once or twice A Week:
Exfoliate! Products such as Mario Badescu Glycolic Foaming Cleanser and Botanical Exfoliating Scrub are designed to dissolve dead skin cells and refresh complexion. Induldge using a treatment mask, available for all skin types and skin concerns; Musteav Masks are antioxident and vitamin-infused to target and combat skin concerns.