Rules, Rules, Rules!

We like to think that there are no rules when it comes to makeup artistry. However, when our objective, as makeup artists, is to enhance one’s natural beauty, there are a few rules that are recommended. Properly Care for and Prep the Skin

In order to achieve a beautiful canvas, we must prepare our canvas, the skin, accordingly. Most skin care should be done at night. However, before the application of foundation in the morning, the skin must be prepared to ensure that the foundation will look as good as possible. If the skin is not sufficiently hydrated, the foundation will look cakey and will not enhance. If the skin is oily, the skin will reflect an unflattering shine. Cleanse, mattify oily areas, moisturize dry skin areas, and then apply the primer, which will help the foundation create the illusion of a flawless surface.

Avoid Application of Heavy Foundation

With respect to foundation, less is more; specifically, it is not flattering to apply heavy layers of foundation, regardless of the age or condition of the skin: excessive foundation creates an opaque, unnatural texture and the skin no longer looks like skin.

Having said that, if an area needs extra coverage, instead of adding more of the same foundation over the affected area, women should instead work toward color correction: when covering a cool, blue/grey area, such as the under-eye area, use a peach concealer; and when covering a red area, if diffused, use a yellow-green concealer. If there is just a small red imperfection, use a yellow-based concealer; do not keep applying heavy layers of foundation!

Apply Makeup for Accent Points that will Enhance

To create drama, makeup artists play up the eyes, lips and cheeks, also referred to as the accent points. When it comes to the accent points, application should be adjusted in view of the time of day, the event, and the woman’s age.

During the day, and particularly in a conservative environment, brightly colored eye shadow, blush and dramatic-colored, opaque lips, should be avoided. Instead, it is recommended that tones from white to black and everything in between should be used for the eye makeup. Young women and women with richer skin tones look best with just a hint of shimmer. Blush should be soft and lips should be either a sheer deep color or a more natural, or “nude” look.

In the evening, makeup can be made more glamorous and dramatic. Textures such as shimmers are beautiful in the evening hours; however, mature women who are not deep skin-toned, should avoid applying any light-reflective makeup on areas where the skin is not absolutely firm; using shimmers will only draw the light to the area, and will serve to emphasize the imperfection.

Regardless of the time of day, caking on the mascara is not flattering on anyone; it is harsh and makes the person look ungroomed, hard and unapproachable. On the other hand, well-placed false eyelashes, appropriate for the occasion, are beautiful on all ages; choose conservative lashes for day, and more dramatic, glamorous lashes for evening.

Avoid Following Trends – (if not flattering)

While it is important to look up-to-date, if a particular trend is unflattering, the woman should either avoid it, or modify the trendy look to enhance her beauty. For example, even if the current trend calls for matte lips, the mature woman would be wise to add a light gloss to the lower lip to add a little radiance and moisture. Another example: if the trend calls for blue shimmery eye shadows, and the lids are not smooth, the mature woman should avoid the shimmer and instead focus on a flattering matte blue eye shadow, carefully placed so as to not distract from the beautiful face.

While the above rules have some tips to consider, we should always continue to experiment and have fun; who knows? You or your client may be able to pull of a shimmery blush on an older cheekbone after all!

UncategorizedJill Glaser