TURNING INSTAGRAM MAKEUP TRENDS INTO WEARABLE LOOKS (or In Real Life – IRL)
The “Instagram” Look-
It's easy to spot an Instagram face: the eyebrows are dramatically structured, the lips are over-drawn, the eye makeup incorporates a “cut crease” and a “cat eye” and a heavy hand is used to contour and highlight the face, without regard to face shape, lighting, or its appropriateness for the time of day. Heavy, unnatural-looking shimmer is heavily placed on the cheeks (“strobing”).
It is possible, however, to incorporate the desired social media trends, using a lighter hand, and with attention paid to the needs of the individual’s specific face/features, time of day, and formality of the occasion.
Create a “Wearable “ Instagram Look (IRL)
The Skin-
We all want beautiful skin; however, there is a current obsession with highlighting, overdone in an effort to achieve an unnatural glow to the skin. For a current look, IRL, the skin can be radiant and luminous without the excessive use of hyper-real highlighting. For an instant, everyday “lit from within” effect, start with a well-moisturized and primed face. Use a (sheer) foundation, adding concealer only where needed to color-correct, typically under the eyes. To achieve the natural, luminous effect, blend a cream or liquid highlighter lightly over areas of the face where the light naturally hits: the forehead, the top of the cheekbones, under the arches of the brows, down the nose and, sparingly, on the cupid’s bow of the mouth. Avoid contouring, unless you are skilled at blending to create a natural look. In fact, “nontouring”, or simply highlighting without contouring, is thankfully becoming mainstream, following reality star, Kim Kardashian and her currently pared-down makeup.
*Pro Tip: To “bump up the look”: Add a highlighter to your foundation for an all-over glow. Kevyn Aucoin's "The Celestial Skin Lightening Liquid" is a waterproof and 12-hour wear, cream and gel hybrid formula that can be used to illuminate and as a skin treatment primer and foundation developer. The formula glides on easily, bringing an illuminating effect to the complexion, and it absorbs into the skin without leaving a pale, powdery finish.
The Instagram “Cut Crease” and “Cat Eye”- Soften the look for IRL-
The Instagram eye makeup application is so harsh IRL, that instead of enhancing the eyes, it actually takes on a life of it’s own and creates a distraction. For an eye makeup look that is not harsh, as well as appropriate for daytime, we suggest trying the following: Prime the eyelid: apply an eyelid primer such as Cinema Secrets Eye Primer. Select either a translucent setting powder or an eye shadow powder lighter than your skin tone to set the eyelid. At this point, it may be desirable to simply curl the lashes and add mascara.
For a more finished look and to create the illusion of the desirable almond-shaped eye, you may apply a mid-tone from the lash line to the crease of the eyelid. Select a darker tone to apply to the crease and outer corner of the eye. Apply a light tone, with or without texture, under the arch of the brow and sometimes also in the corner of the eye. To add dimension, you can apply a subtle pigment or shimmer in the center of the lid. Line the upper lash line with a tight line of powder or gel, and smudge the liner with a lighter tone. Line the lower lash line, in the same manner as the upper eye, if desired. Curling the lashes will “open” the eyes, while mascara will help define the lashes. While you can add false lashes during the day, providing that they are “wispy” and light, avoid the social media trend of applying excessive layers of mascara.
Suggested Products
Eyes: Cinema Secrets Pro Eye Base, FIRST by Make Up First® (Maqpro) Slim Pro Palette, FIRST by Make Up First® (Maqpro) Star Powder, INGLOT Duraline, Tweezerman Pro Eyelash Curler, Kevyn Aucoin Essential Mascara
“Spider”, Full Dramatic Lashes v. Natural False Lashes-
Nothing creates drama better than the addition of beautiful false lashes. On several designer runways, as well as on the reality influencers, however, we have seen bold, long, spider-like lashes, so dramatic that we have nowhere else to focus but on the false lashes. Albeit, good for fashion, long, “spider-lashes” are not appropriate for everyday wear; nor are the heavy, thick dramatic lashes, frequently worn by drag queens, suitable for the IRL face. Natural and “wispy” styles will seamlessly work with your everyday makeup routine and add a glamorous, eye-defining look.
MONDA 217
Everyday Brows-
For brows that are groomed but not overdone, as well as appropriate for real life, do not create a dark, highly structured, angular brow as favored on Instagram. The eyebrows provide a frame for our eyes; if the frame is too dark or too harsh, we detract from the beauty of the eyes and face. Stay away from the use of dark, heavy pencil, and instead try using the more forgiving brow gel or brow mascara. Follow the natural shape of the brows and with subtle technique, alter the shape to suit the particular individual. The new Senna Powder Brow Pencil creates a soft brow; the Senna gel, Brow Fix X, has a fiber formula that creates the illusion of a fuller brow. For those blessed with full brows, we recommend the use of a brow gel to subtly enhance the brows, while keeping stray brow hairs groomed.
